Layers and layers of history

June 21, 2012

After the standard breakfast, we found ourselves back in the classroom this morning for a lengthy discussion of cheese production. With all the talk of cheese, time flew by and we were soon ready for a lunch break. Still tired from the previous day, I stayed in for lunch with Wei Ji and Luisa. When the rest of the class returned, we resumed another 2 hour discussion of cheese production. In France, a country with at least 350 cheeses, one could discuss it forever.

This house was called the house of
dragons due to the dragon carvings
in the pillars.

At 4pm we met with Cathy Healy to check out a few historically significant houses in Cluny which were being preserved and restored. First, we visited an unrestored, but well-preserved house which was one of the first to be built in Cluny. From the high ceilings, it was clear that this was once home to a very wealthy family, and served as both a workshop and a living quarters.

Bottom left is the original floor,
top right is the present floor.

 The walls were being chipped away and the floor excavated, to peel back the centuries of layers and reveal the skeleton of the original structure.

Can you see the old painting
of a knight?

We climbed each of the three floors, and on the third floor saw some old basic wall paintings.

Old paintings and sketches
uncovered, dating back over
100 years!

Just outside, workers were busy laying down new cobblestone roads to replace the pavement that had overlain such a charismatic town feature. One by one, a man skillfully hammered each stone into place. We made our way around the construction and were welcomed into the home of our guide (something not common in French culture). 

This home, unlike the other, was beautifully restored. The entire bottom floor was filled with uncovered treasures the man had revealed during his home’s restoration, and which he was studying to better understand life in old Cluny. Artifacts were proudly displayed throughout the home, and minor features alluding the house’s previous inhabitants, such as paintings or little nooks, were cherished and exaggerated. This man was so passionate about everything he was sharing with us, we could feel his excitement at each turn, and he was anxious to show and explain to us each artifact he had lain out.

On the way back to Cluny Sejour, Cathy told us that there was someone whom she’d like us to meet. As we began to follow her, she told us she was bringing us to meet her father at his apartment, just next door. He welcomed us into his apartment, wholeheartedly aswell—he was adorable and it was a pleasure.

Overwhelmed by the passion and warmth surrounding me as I stood among my peers in Cathy’s father’s apartment, I found myself holding back tears. I couldn’t get over how genuine everyone was, and I was absolutely touched.

At 6:15 we parted to come back to the hostel. Tonight we’re going to be going to dinner and afterwards, there is a music festival going on throughout the town which we hope to walk around and enjoy. On our way back we saw several bands and food vendors beginning to set up for the evening. I believe we’re going to the town pizza place, for which I am interested to see the French interpretation of pizza.

Tomorrow we’re taking a trip to the Gaugry Fromagerie to see Epoisses being made. I’ve heard a lot about this cheese, so I’m very excited to try it! 

- Adrianne Speranza